Lift and love, ladies. Don't shift and shove.
Sculpt and tease. Don't heave and squeeze.
Here are the 2 key points to remember:
- The band should be SNUG.
- The cups should HUG.
Snug means the band should run horizontally from the bottom of the cup to the back clasp. And when it's new, it should do this on the loosest hooks so that you can maintain the fit as the bra ages by tightening the hooks. If your band is too big it will ride up in the back. As soon as that happens, the support is lost and the bra is a failure.
If you've been wearing loose bras for a long time that snug fit that's correct might feel weird or uncomfortable. Give it a week! You'll quickly find that having properly supported breasts with nice shape is much more comfortable than sagging free.
When I started trying on my existing bras, I was shocked to find that even on the tightest hooks, most of them rode up in back. I'd put them on, turn to the side, and whoops! - a nice diagonal line from the bottom of the cup up to the hooks. And it wasn't because I had the straps cinched too tight.
Almost all the support should come from the band and cups, NOT from the straps. Many women keep tightening their straps to lift their breasts when in reality, the band and cups should be handling that job. According to Intimacy (the miracle-working bra specialists frequently showcased on What Not To Wear) 90% of the support should come from the band, and only 10% from the straps. But it's hard to gauge whether your band is doing 90% of the work. We might think it's doing 90% when in reality it's more of a 60/40 split, or worse.
Now about Point 2.
A good hug goes all the way around. Applying that concept to the underwire of the cup means it should "smile" all the way around the bottom of your breast. One end should sit under your arm, slightly behind the breast so that it doesn't dig into the breast. The other end should stop between both breasts. And it should lay flat against your ribcage, not flat against the bottom of your boob. At no point should it gap away from your ribcage or sternum. If it does, it's too small.
The cups should not gap, pucker, pull, or create quadra-boobs. You shouldn't swim in them nor bulge out of them. The style of the bra will have much to do with this (which we'll discuss in the next post). If the band and underwire fit you well, but the cups don't, try a different style of cup; full coverage, balconet, demi, angled, etc. Here's a nice little video covering the finer points of good bra fit.
Join me for the next post in the series when we'll talk about color, calculators, and reconciling style vs size!
Here are today's links:
1. The Top 10 Bra Mistakes at Intimacy.
2. A nice Full Experience bra fit video from Bravissimo in England.